A Rhein Bike Hike

My friend Mike hesitantly agreed to taking a Bike Hike with me along the Rhein. He was under the mistaken impression that I, A) am fit and B) like to go fast. I think he was pleasantly surprised that I am, A) NOT and B) could not. We both ended up having a fantastic ride along the Rhein. It wetted my appetite to explore the area more another time, and I think it showed Mike that bike touring can be a relaxing and pleasant experience. It was not like a bike tour in the US for any number of reasons. I guess I would classify them as: equipment, route and attitude.

We hopped on board a regional train from Bonn and headed South (up stream) along the eastern shore of the huge Rhein river. All of the local trains and regional trains in Germany have special cars designated for bikes. You pay a couple of Euros extra for the bike and stow it in a designated area in the car. It makes bike hikes incredibly easy without a car. Very cool. Bonn is by no means an industrial city, nor is it terribly big (300,000 people), and the south eastern section quickly enters parkland (Bonn’s Seven Hills ). Soon thereafter beautiful small vineyards climb up the steep valley sides from the wide river below. Within about 45 minutes we were haltingly transported to the city of Neuwied 30 miles upstream. Once there, we disembarked with our bikes into the sleepy town.

Equipment

There is a huge variety of bikes here. Many look like the ones we are used to now, either sleek, light road bikes, or sporty mountain bikes. The vast majority of bikes, however, look like the ones I remember as a kid as “English” bikes. I am sure you remember them too. They are more like rolling couches than bikes. You sit straight up on a big comfy seat. The wheels stretch out ahead and behind covered with fenders. Reflectors and lights are firmly attached as is a chain guard to protect you pants and a sturdy rack to carry lots and lots of stuff. Substantial tires turn the rough riding surfaces into smooth tracks, and, once you get it moving, the whole mechanism steams along like the barges nearby in the river. I guess the one Mike leant me weighs about 50 pounds (my bike at home weighs 18). These ultra (dare I say Über) practical bikes are perfect for touring here, and here it why.

Route

Once we exited the train and the fork lift moved our bikes to the side walk (kidding), we followed our noses to the river. In most areas a really good map is needed, or you can buy wicked cool satellite navigation systems that strap too the handlebars. I have to admit that I long for one of those, even though they cost as much as a cheap bike. In this case, however, neither was really necessary. Maps? We don’t need no stinkin’ maps! Eventually we did find the river, and from there it was relatively simple; go to far right and lose the river, too far left and get wet. No problem.

With the exception of a very few newer bike paths (like Fläming Skate) cycling routes in Germany are a eclectic mix of smooth paved paths, roughly paved paths, ie: kopfstein pflaster (cobble stones), unpaved paths, country lanes, village lanes, etc. This route along the Rhein was a mixture of all the above. It was nicely marked with small signs at most of the intersections. Before too long we left the slightly industrial Neuwied, diverted away from the rumbling freight trains along the river, and began climbing a dirt road into a small vinyard on the hillside. Mike was beebopping up the hill on his mountain bike while I lumbered up behind him on Magnus the Terrible. Within a couple of minutes, we were high above the river and looking down through the carefully cultivated grape vines at the river below. The river is full of barges steaming up or down with loads ranging from coal to shipping containers to oil. Each one stretches about 100 yards, with a small pilot house on the back. Gracing their decks just behind the pilot house is at least one car and often a speed boat. A flag (usually German but often Dutch, French, etc) dangles over the stern. Above us on a cliff overlooking the river is the ruin of an ancient castle.

About halfway along our trek we entered the ancient village of Linz. Wow, what a beautiful place! Danielle and I had read that you have to go to southern Germany to see traditional exposed timber houses and that most were destroyed during the war. Well, whoever wrote that has to see this lovely town. The half timber houses dated from the 17th and 18th century. Every one was adoringly painted and had window boxes overflowing with colour. We locked up the bikes in the old town square and headed hungrily toward an outdoor café. Which brings me to touring difference number three.

Attitude

Hill walking, cycling etc. here are a wonderful balance of exercise and hedonism. We had been riding about 1 ½ hours, so time for some pampering! I ordered a Pizza and large OJ, Mike ordered pasta and a large Apfelschorl. Apfelschorl, by the way, is Germany’s single most important contribution to western civilization. It is ½ apple juice and ½ seltzer water. I have never liked apple juice by itself (too sweet) but perk it up with some bubbles and cut the sweetness and it is fantastic! We basked there in the village square enjoying a delicious and thirst quenching lunch, and then explored Linz on foot. Not to be rushed, after our circumnavigation we circled back to a different café for coffee and cake. Life is tough.

Eventually, it was time to bid Linz aufwiedersehen, Our ride continued twisting, rising and falling through vineyards and villages until we approached the edge of Bonn. There, the track leveled, widened and cruised through lovely park land along the river. We finished up at Mike’s comfortable apartment in the heart of Bonn’s shopping district. The day was topped off by a fantastic (and well deserved) steak dinner with a group of Mike and Christine’s kind and very interesting friends. The Kölsch beer did not hurt either. :- )